法国女裁缝的参考文章，大家当半个考古看吧

balgirl

In particular, the late-seventeenth-century introduction of a new style of dress called the manteau or mantua, and its increasing popularity, offered female seamstresses a "wedge " to loosen the tailors' monopoly over the production of more formal, elite, and expensive women's fashions. This new product and more generally the exploding market for clothing, in particular women's clothing, provided seamstresses with the income and market niche from which to expand their numbers and to organize politically within the previously male-dominated trade. Furthermore, they could generally rely on the French state, with its agenda of economic development, to aid in this expansion and organization.

In contrast with much of the prevailing historiography, Crowston demonstrates that when it was in the interest of the French state, authorities were happy to work with and encourage women workers as autonomousproducers and not merely as family appendages to guild patriarchs. Crowston thus reinforces Hesse's claim that market expansion brought new opportunities for some women, but she locates these expanding opportunities in the political economy of the late Ancient Regime, rather than in the Revolution's overthrow of it.

In Crowston's history, the seamstresses of Ancien Regime France emerge as relatively powerful and autonomous figures whose work, civic, and gender identities drew upon many sources, but were institutionalized in important ways because of the existence and practices of their guild. The destruction of the guild system during the Revolution thus represents a critical moment in the history of women's work and gender relations—from the perspective of women working in the garment trades, the "freeing" of the market from political constraints brought a largely negative transformation. A closer look at each of these works helps to reveal the origins of the tensions between these two interpretations.

camelo777

LZ威武，是不是就是原文哈？

梦幻公主

In 1675, Louis XIV established the Parisian seamstresses’ guild  女裁缝协会 , the first independent all-female guild created in over 200 years. Guild members could make and sell women’s and children’s clothing, but were prohibited from producing men’s clothing or dresses for court 宫廷 women. Tailors  resented the ascension of seamstresses to guild status; seamstresses, meanwhile, were impatient with the remaining restrictions on their right to clothe women.
   The conflict between the guilds was not purely economic, however.  A 1675 police report indicated that since so many seamstresses were already working illegally, the tailors were unlikely to suffer additional economic damage because of the seamstresses’ incorporation 团结 . Moreover, guild membership held very different meanings for tailors and seamstresses. To the tailors, their status as guild members overlapped with their role as heads of household, and entitled them to employ as seamstresses female family members who did not marry outside the trade. The seamstresses, however, viewed guild membership as a mark of independenc the patriarchal family.  Their guild was composed not of family units but of individual women who enjoyed unusual legal and economic privileges. At the conflict’s center was the issue of whether tailors’ female relatives should be identified as family members protected by the tailors’ guild or as individuals under the jurisdiction of the seamstresses’ guild.

梦幻公主

是这篇吗？gwd上的，求确认

可乐罐子

回三楼的： 好像不是哦， 内容和狗狗完全不一样，但是当作背景知识看看蛮好的

forevercoco

http://www.docin.com/p-66694451.html
看这个吧~~copy不下来~~有比较细致的翻译和出题点~~