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[阅读小分队] 【揽瓜阁 外刊精读8.0】Day2 2021.06.17【人文科学-时尚、文学】

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发表于 2021-6-16 21:58:44 | 显示全部楼层 |阅读模式
  揽瓜阁俱乐部第八期
  Day2 2021.06.17

【人文科学-时尚】The future of fashion is old clothes (Financial Times - 1035字 长精读)

For her debut Chloé show this month, the designer Gabriela Hearst acquired 50 second-hand versions of the brand’s once-popular Edith bag from eBay and, using scraps of yarn, leather and wool left over from previous Chloé collections, reworked them by hand into refreshingly original, one-of-a-kind creations.

With prices at €2,500 to €3,100 per bag, the customer response was wild, Hearst says in an interview back home in New York 10 days later. Whereas well-heeled buyers might once have turned up their noses at the idea of carrying someone else’s old handbag, today some of the most in-demand items at luxury houses are unique items crafted from worn or leftover materials. Often patchworked and made opulent through layers of printing or embroidery, these “upcycled” pieces have an artisanal feel lacking in many luxury goods. Buyers can also feel good about putting their money towards items that might have otherwise ended up in landfill. “This is the first time I can remember in my life that upcycling is actually a desirable trend,” says Caroline Brown, a former chief executive of Donna Karan and DKNY who is now managing director of sustainability-focused investment group Closed Loop Partners. “There are now consumers choosing to buy second-hand over new.”

The Edith bags were not a one-off for Hearst, who has been using recycled and deadstock fabrics and reworking last season’s unsold stock into her namesake collections for years. She has pledged to make 80 per cent of her products from non-virgin materials by the end of next year. “It’s really exciting that this is now exciting,” she says. “From my very first show in 2017 we used upcycled materials, and it was controversial. It was not a thing that was considered luxury.”

Once a novelty associated with fashion students and cash-poor teenagers with charity shop habits and home sewing machines, repurposed garments and materials have become almost ubiquitous in luxury collections over the past year. Often this was driven by necessity: with seasonal collections to produce and many European suppliers shut down because of the pandemic, designers have been forced to hunt down unused buttons, yarns and fabrics from their own storage facilities. It is no longer rare to see last season’s print on this season’s runways.

The shift is not limited to high fashion. In recent years, high street brands including H&M-owned Cos and Arket have introduced capsule collections with materials sourced from e-commerce returns and worn garments gathered from customers via in-store recycling bins. Outdoor clothing purveyors Patagonia and The North Face both sell refurbished garments and bags that have been traded in by customers. These pieces are often available at a fraction of the price, and look much cooler. A new 1996 Retro Nuptse puffer jacket from The North Face costs $280 online; a “Remade” version in red, with a nifty floral-print panel on the front, is $186.

Even though the raw materials are often inexpensive, creating one-of-a-kind pieces can be labour-intensive and therefore costly. For her Autumn/Winter 2021 show, Paris-based designer Marine Serre ran video footage showing the unglamorous reality of producing her patchwork dresses, jackets and jeans, which require sifting through piles of discarded denim, tablecloths, silk scarves and towels. Colville designers Lucinda Chambers and Molly Molloy trawl through local charity shops for old puffers and ‘80s ski suits needed to make their quilted coats and colourful patchwork bags.

To make her recent capsule collection of upcycled wool blanket coats for Selfridges, designer Bethany Williams scoured vintage markets for six months. The coats were washed, recut and pieced together by hand, while the buttons were carved from fallen trees in an electricity-free workshop in east London. Priced starting at £1,380, 20 per cent of proceeds are going to the Magpie Project, a charity that provides temporary housing for women and children in the London borough of Newham. “Virgin [materials] would be cheaper,” she acknowledges.

Anna Foster, founder of four-year-old label ELV Denim, specialises in upcycled jeans starting around £250 per pair. She and executive creative lead Hannah Busby seek out discarded pairs at vintage warehouses and textile associations, focusing on the larger sizes that are the least in-demand from other upcyclers. “Hannah and I literally wade through dumps of fabric,” says Foster. “It takes time and effort; everything is washed in the local launderette, unstitched, recut and resewn; and I want to pay the people who work at my [UK] factories a proper wage.”  

Foster decided to start her label after learning about the enormous levels of overproduction and water usage in the denim industry. “The damage has already been done,” she says. “By upcycling it, we’re at least preventing it from degrading or being burnt or further damaging the environment.”

While her business is profitable, most designers I spoke to said they have difficulty making money on garments made from charity shop finds or other companies’ waste —even when the resulting pieces are priced in the thousands of euros. “Everything is hand-picked and hand-sewn; we haven’t managed to commercialise them,” Molloy says of Colville’s upcycled T-shirts and puffers.

Jeff Denby is on a mission to help fashion companies transition from a linear to a circular business model — and to do it profitably. His company powers all of the back-end operations that enable brands including Tommy Hilfiger and The North Face to collect, repair and resell goods that might otherwise have gone to landfill. “We work with product that has already been made, stuff that has gone back because it was defective, or it was returned to an e-commerce website. We collect, sort, clean, refurbish and bring it back to a like-new condition so it can be sold again. Anything we don’t renew, we manage out to textile recyclers.”

Hearst doesn’t believe virgin materials will ever entirely disappear from the fashion industry. But she thinks most will. “We need to rapidly move to circularity if we are going to survive. We are going to be more than 8 billion people [soon], we have [a limited] amount of space to plant and grow food,” she says. “We as a culture have to decide what is important to have new and what is important to not have new. This buying and discarding [of clothing] seems obsolete.”


【人文科学-文学】Travel Literature( WSY -257 字 短精读)



【笔记格式要求】
同学们精读这 2 篇文章并进行笔记打卡

精读笔记格式要求:
1.总结文章中心大意
2.总结分论点或每段段落大意
3.摘抄印象深刻或者觉得优美的句子
4.总结文章中的生词
5.记录阅读时间、总结时间、总时间

这里也给大家三点学习小建议哦~
精读:如遇到读不懂的复杂句,建议找出句子主干,分析句子成分,也可以尝试翻译句子来帮助理解~



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发表于 2021-6-17 11:20:58 | 显示全部楼层
八 Day2

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发表于 2021-6-17 11:51:38 发自 iPhone | 显示全部楼层
打卡

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发表于 2021-6-17 14:41:16 | 显示全部楼层
The future of fashion is old clothes (Financial Times - 1035字 长精读)

1.总结
Fashion industries start using old clothes, but it also has a lot of problems.

2.分段
1-3 Today some of the most in-demand items at luxury houses are unique items crafted from worn or leftover materials.
4-5 The factor of why fashion industries start using recycled material.
6- 8 Even though the raw materials are often inexpensive, creating one-of-a-kind pieces can be labour-intensive and therefore costly. 
9- 11 It’s still hard to commercialize recycling clothes .
3.摘抄
Once a novelty associated with fashion students and cash-poor teenagers with charity shop habits and home sewing machines, repurposed garments and materials have become almost ubiquitous in luxury collections over the past year. 

4.
well-heeled:wealthy
artisanal :relating to or characteristic of an artisan
Embroidery:decorative needlework
refurbished :to make clean, bright, or fresh again; renovate
denim :a coarse durable twill-weave cotton fabric
debut :A first public appearance

Obsolete:out-of-date, no longer in use
Ubiquitous:present or existing everywhere
Repurposed:taking one thing or a material and using it for a purpose not originally intended

5.
阅读:15m
总结:10m

Travel Literature

1.总结
旅游文学在西方的发展及其背后的原因

2.分段
1.在十六世纪到十八世纪,旅游文学在西方世界的影响力不断提高和发展的原因。
2.十七世纪旅游文学在英国达到了高点,这与英国在海外的扩张有关。

3.摘抄
Travel literature reached the absolute summit of its popularity in England at the turn of the 17th century as a result of England’s isolation from other centres of civilization.

4.生词
Mingle:to mix or combine
Retaliation::revenge
Amoral :lacking a moral sense; unconcerned with the rightness or wrongness of something.
Proscribed:outlawed; condemned as dangerous

5.时间
阅读:5m
总结:10m
发表于 2021-6-17 15:17:14 | 显示全部楼层
The future of fashion is old clothes

1.总结文章中心大意
The old clothes or bags will be new fathion trend

2.总结分论点或每段段落大意
P1-P3: More and more luxury brand made stuff using old materials.
P4-P8: Why fasion brand started this trend.
P9-P11: It is still chanlleging to use used clothes as the materials.


3.摘抄印象深刻或者觉得优美的句子
Anything we don’t renew, we manage out to textile recyclers.

4.总结文章中的生词
garment v. 衣服

5.阅读时间:19min
   总结时间:20min
   总时间:39min

Travel Literature
1.总结文章中心大意
A book is written for the histroy of wine at the white house.

2.总结分论点或每段段落大意
P1: Travel lierarture is very popular from 16th to 18th centry.
P2: Travel lierarture reached its summit in England at 17th centries and why it is so popular.

3.摘抄印象深刻或者觉得优美的句子
This has been referred to as the “retaliation of prosribed fantasy”.
4.总结文章中的生词
devour v. 吞噬,毁灭
guise n. 伪装,外观
5.阅读时间:6min
   总结时间:9min
   总时间:15min
发表于 2021-6-17 17:46:01 | 显示全部楼层
Theme:
Upcycling is becoming a trend in fashion field
Paragraph main point:
1~3 Introduction of background of the changes in luxury fashion
4 Reasons that second-hand materials become ubiquitous in luxury collections
5 Even high street brands and outdoor clothing started adopting upcycling materials
6-11 Analysis of upcycling trend: difficulties benefits
12 Conclusion: upcycling will become the future of fashion
Vocabulary:  
Well heeled 富有的Opulent 丰富的 大量的
Embroidery 刺绣Upcycling 升级再造
Ubiquitous 普遍存在的Capsule collection 胶囊系列
Obsolete 过时的
(Time: 25mins)

Theme:
Introduction of development of Travel Literature in Western from 16th to 18th century.
Paragraph main point:
1 Public of western approached TL for entertainment rather than for factual info
2 Reasons that TL reached summit in English in 17th and its influence
Vocabulary:  
Vicariously 间接地Devour 吞食 毁灭
Guise 伪装
(Time: 15mins)
发表于 2021-6-17 18:08:17 | 显示全部楼层
Jun. 17th 2021 打卡

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发表于 2021-6-17 19:34:29 | 显示全部楼层
主题:未来旧衣时尚会成为主流
p1:一个案例,旧衣重造并获得好评
p2:表示这种行为是怎么兴起的,消费者为什么会爱上 --区别于奢侈品的感觉--救回旧物的快感
p3:h被要求做一个展利用旧衣
p4-5:对于学生和消费水平弱的人而言这种时尚也可兴,未来时尚秀可能也会有旧衣的t台秀。
高街品牌也迎合这股潮流做了改变。
p6-8:原材料也会很费钱。似乎给了多个案例说明那些设计师如何设计服装。
p9-11:先说这样旧衣设计对于环保有利,通过作者访谈表示很多人认为这样无法获得经济回报。所以有人正在以此为目标,把线性产业转换成可循环利用的产业。
p12:h不认为vitgin会消失,但为了环保大部分会的,所以作者应该表达了支持旧衣支持回收和环保的观点。

主旨:阅读习惯发生改变,文学边界逐渐模糊
p1:travel literature became popular.but public was indiscriminate in reading habits and overlook factual basis.
p2:17th summit--public need both true and fantastic and became interested only in fact.--swallow,blur

debut n&v初次登台
It’s really exciting that this is now exciting
ubiquitous a普遍存在的
nifty a漂亮的
capsule  n胶囊,v压缩
mission n任务,v传教
obsolete  =old-fashion

devour  毁灭;吞噬
despise v鄙视
amoral a-与道德无关的
retaliation 报复
proscribe 剥夺;禁止
indiscriminate 无差别的;任意的
sceptical 怀疑的
missionary 传教的人


时间:12‘36+20

发表于 2021-6-17 20:35:57 | 显示全部楼层
P1
-总结文章中心大意
Re-using old clothes is becoming popular in fashion industry.
-总结分论点或每段段落大意
1: One designer of luxury brand reworked old clothes
2: Two reasons why customers change their attitudes towards reworked clothes-
3-5: Both high fashion and high street brands follow the trend of remaking collections with old related materials
6-8: Difficulties when faced with re-using old clothes: labor, time and effort
9-11: Most designers found it hard to commercialize upcycling clothes & one measure taken to help make it profitable
12: Circularity will become an inevitable trend.
-总结文章中的生词
Debut 首场
Well-heeled 富裕的
Turn op nose 瞧不起
Opulent 富裕的
Ubiquitous 普遍存在的
Obsolete 过时的

P2
-总结文章中心大意
Reason of the development of Travel Literature in Western culture
-总结分论点或每段段落大意
1: Travel Literature reached the height of its influence on Western culture from 16th to 18th century not because of its factual information but because of the public’s entertainment purpose
2: An example: The development of TL in England, its reasons and influences on the relationship between poetry and knowledge
-总结文章中的生词
Vicariously代理地
Devour 毁灭
Guise 欺骗
Retaliation 报复
发表于 2021-6-17 21:35:29 | 显示全部楼层
总时长约60分钟

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