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转自:http://www.ecocn.org/forum.php?mod=viewthread&tid=19987&page=1#pid165918
Some wine can improve if stored in a carton rather than in a bottle 利乐包装葡萄酒比瓶装的更好喝
AMONG snobs and sommeliers, nothing can compete with wine in a glass bottle sealed with a cork stopper. Yet as cheap alternatives to cork have become available and high fuel prices have made transporting glass more expensive, some winemakers have adopted an alternative method of storage: putting wine in cartons, like those used for milk, made from layers of polythene, paper and aluminium foil. Admittedly, serving wine from a carton lacks the aesthetic appeal of a bottle, and cartons have also been criticised for allowing flavour-destroying oxygen to seep in during storage. A new study, however, reveals that although the criticism of wine cartons for allowing oxidation is valid, they have the advantage of soaking up chemicals that can ruin the flavour in other ways.
对于自命不凡的品酒者和斟酒服务员而言,带有软木塞的瓶装葡萄酒是无与伦比的。因为出现了软木塞的廉价替代品,以及高涨的能源价格致使玻璃瓶运输更加昂贵,所以部分葡萄酒制造商采取了别的储藏方式,即将葡萄酒灌入用于装牛奶的利乐包中。利乐包是由聚乙烯材料、纸以及铝箔制成。诚然,利乐包葡萄酒不如瓶装葡萄酒富有情调,并且被指责其会使氧气渗入而破坏了口味。然而,一项新研究表明虽然对利乐包葡萄酒容易氧化的指责不成立,但是很多情况下仍有可能吸收化学物质从而破坏口味。
High levels of chemicals called alkyl-methoxypyrazines can make wines taste as though the fruit from which they were made was under-ripe or low-quality. Originally grapes themselves were thought to be the only source of this class of compounds in wine, but recent research has shown that invasive Asian lady beetles (also known as Harlequin ladybirds) are also involved in the process. These beetles eat grapes and can accidentally get mixed into the winemaking process. They then contribute to the formation of these undesirable chemicals in some North American and French wines.
高含量的化学物质烷基-甲氧基吡嗪,能使葡萄酒品尝起来像是来之未成熟或低品质的葡萄。起初,认为这类化合物只是来之葡萄本身,但是最近研究表明外来的亚洲瓢虫(也被称为花斑瓢虫)也与这一类物质有关。亚洲瓢虫爱吃葡萄,常随着葡萄采摘被带回酒庄,在酿造过程中若未将之除去而混入酒中,然后就会形成烷基-甲氧基吡嗪。在部分北美与法国葡萄酒中此类使人不悦的化学物质就是如此产生的。
The wine industry has tried various ways to remove alkyl-methoxypyrazines, but none has been particularly successful. To make matters worse, the Asian lady beetle is becoming more prevalent in Italy, Spain, Argentina and South Africa, which means winemakers from those regions could soon face the problem of dealing with these chemicals, too. But it has long been known that packaging plays a role in controlling wine chemistry and taste by absorbing some volatile compounds in a process known as “flavour scalping”. A team led by Gary Pickering at Brock University in Canada decided to investigate the impact of different forms of packaging on the concentration of alkyl-methoxypyrazines in wines.
葡萄酒业尝试了很多种方法去除烷基-甲氧基吡嗪,但是没有一种特别成功。更糟的是意大利、西班牙、阿根廷和南非正遭受亚洲瓢虫肆虐,且越来越严重。这意味着来之这些国家的葡萄酒制造业很快也将要面临处理这些化学物质的问题。很久以来就知晓包装在控制葡萄酒化学物质和口味上有很重要的作用,主要是在“去味”过程中吸收一些具挥发性的化合物。在加拿大布洛克大学,由加利·皮可林领导的小组决定研究不同包装形式对葡萄酒中烷基-甲氧基吡嗪的浓度有何影响。
The researchers added three types of alkyl-methoxypyrazine to red (cabernet franc) and white (riesling) wines, some of which were stored in cartons, and others in bottles. Natural cork, synthetic cork and screw caps were used to seal the bottles. The researchers then monitored chemical levels in the wines for 18 months.
研究人员将三类烷基-甲氧基吡嗪加在卡本內-弗朗(cabernet franc)红葡萄酒与丽丝玲(riesling)白葡萄酒中。将其一部分储藏在利乐包中,另一部分放在玻璃瓶中,并用天然软木塞、合成软木塞和螺旋盖子对玻璃瓶进行封口。在随后的18个月中,研究人员检测葡萄酒中的化学物质含量。
They report in the Journal of Agricultural and Food Chemistry that at the end of the study the levels of the different types of alkyl-methoxypyrazines, known as IBMP, IPMP and SBMP, had fallen by 45%, 32% and 26% respectively in the wines stored in cartons. In wines stored in bottles, the levels of IBMP (which produces a characteristic “sweet pepper” taste) did not fall as much: by 37% for synthetic cork, 36% for screw cap and 31% for natural cork. When it came to IPMP (associated with “green pea” and “earthy” flavours) the level increased by 2-3% for natural cork, but fell by 7% for screw cap and 19% for synthetic cork. The levels of SBMP (which is thought to help determine aroma) rose in all the bottled wine, but fell in that kept in cartons. The results were similar for both types of grape.
他们发表在《农业和食品化学期刊》上的报告称,在本研究结束时,利乐包装葡萄酒的三类不同烷基-甲氧基吡嗪,IBMP、IPMP和SBMP,分别下降了45%、32%和26%。而对于瓶装葡萄酒,产生甜辣椒味的IBMP含量没像利乐包装葡萄酒那样下降很多:合成软木塞下降37%,螺旋盖子36%,和天然软木塞31%。至于产生嫩豌豆味或者土味的IPMP含量,螺旋盖子和合成软木塞分别下降了7%和19%,天然软木塞却增加了2-3%。至于认为决定芳香度的SBMP在瓶装葡萄酒中的含量普遍增加,而在利乐包中的含量下降。这两类葡萄的结果相似。
Why the cartons have this effect is not entirely understood, but Dr Pickering speculates that the wine may be seeping through the inner polythene layers and making contact with the aluminium layer beyond. He suggests that the alkyl-methoxypyrazine molecules may be sticking to the aluminium and thus being segregated from the wine. If his theory is correct, fiddling with the composition of box interiors could be a good way for the wine industry to control the concentration of unpleasant chemicals.
为何利乐包有如此效果呢?现在还不能完全得知,但皮可林推测,葡萄酒可能经由利乐包内的聚乙烯层渗透到铝箔层,使烷基-甲氧基吡嗪分子被铝箔层吸附,从而与酒分离。如果他的理论正确,通过变包装的内层成分来控制令人不悦化学物质浓度,对于葡萄酒业而言是一个好方法。
Cartons might thus assume an important role in the wine market. They could be ideal for storing wines that are inclined to be high in alkyl-methoxypyrazines but will be drunk relatively soon after purchase, before oxidation can become a significant problem. For grand wines, however, bottles with natural corks are likely to remain the packaging of choice.
因此,利乐包可能在葡萄酒市场上成为重要的角色。对于那些烷基-甲氧基吡嗪含量高且会在购买后很快被饮用的葡萄酒,利用利乐包很合适,因为氧化作用不会成为明显的问题。但对于高级葡萄酒,带有天然软木塞的玻璃瓶可能仍是其首选。 |
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